Does ‘Training’ Your Hair Actually Work? Trichologist Answers (2024)

For several years now, there has been this hot topic and theory of “training” your hair, an idea that you can control the amount of oil your scalp produces by washing your hair less. It seems to be more common now to go days between washes than it is to wash hair everyday. But how true is this claim that you can actually train your hair to produce less oil? Is there any real evidence behind hair training? To get down to the root of this debate (pun intended), we talked to a top trichologist. Keep reading for all the hair washing secrets and myths you need to know.

What does ‘training’ your hair mean?

“The term ‘training your hair’ has been thrown around for many years and it appears it is making a comeback,” says founder of Colour Collective and trichologist Kerry E. Yates. Training your hair refers to the idea that by washing your hair less, you can “teach” your scalp to produce less oil, leading to less oily or greasy hair.

While hair training has been a topic of discussion for years, it’s had a recent resurgence thanks to debates on social media, specifically TikTok. There have been thousands of videos made on this topic and millions of searches surround hair training. And while there are videos supporting the idea that hair training works and you can control how much oil your scalp produces by how often you wash, there are many videos made by trichologists and dermatologists refuting the hair training theory.

Can you really train your hair?

“Honestly there is no scientific evidence that supports the idea that you can ‘train’ your hair to be less oily or dry,” claims Yates. “Hair health, including oil production, is primarily influenced by genetics, hormones and environmental factors.”

“Additionally, internal health plays a significant role in hair health. Hormonal imbalances, nutrient deficiencies or dehydration can exacerbate issues like excess oil or dryness,” advises Yates. “Improving diet, staying hydrated and maintaining a balanced lifestyle can positively impact hair health overall.”

As mentioned above, trichologists and dermatologists have made TikToks agreeing with Yates’ stance, that hair training is really just a myth. Watch the two videos below by dermatologist @aamnaadel and trichologist @abbeyyung.

In the second video above, she explains how no, you cannot train your hair to produce less oil just by washing it less, but your scalp’s oil production can be influenced by the way you wash your hair and the products you use.

Yates agrees: “Managing oily or dry hair can be effectively done through topical treatments, specific shampoos and hair care routines designed for your hair type.”

How to effectively wash your hair to cut down on excess oil production

While simply washing your hair less may not actually help your oily hair, the products you use and your hair washing method should help you go longer in between washes, aka longer before your hair starts to get oily.

Choosing the right ingredients is key. “For oily hair, shampoos containing ingredients like salicylic acid or tea tree oil can help control excess oil production,” says Yates. Further, Yates explains that “regular washing, depending on the scalp's needs, and avoiding overly harsh products can also reduce oiliness.”

One of Yates’ favorites shampoos for oily hair is Oribe Serene Scalp Oil Shampoo. “(The) ingredient mix is designed to gently cleanse away excess oil without stripping the hair. It focuses on supporting the health of the scalp as well as maintaining the health of the hair,” she says. Even more, “the fragrance is truly all that. Most oil control shampoos leave a minty smell, this one continues to deliver on Oribe’s signature scent.”

As far as hair washing methods, make sure you’re properly giving your scalp and hair a thorough clean. “It is amazing how many people do not wash their hair correctly. For example, most will focus on the crown area and forget about the hairline, which will look oily compared to other sections of the hair as the hairline is usually fine in texture,” says Yates. She recommends the below steps to properly wash your hair.

1. Apply shampoo into your hand and mix with a little bit of water to emulsify, then apply to the scalp.

2. “Massage the scalp using your fingertips and work from back to front and vice versa. Most people will apply shampoo directly to the scalp, and they will usually start at the crown, which can prevent even product distribution.”

3. Once you have thoroughly massaged your shampoo, thoroughly rinse the product from your scalp. “Failure to fully rinse away product can lead to build up and can exacerbate your oily hair challenge and even lead to hair loss.”

“You may need to adjust the frequency, the actual process and/or water temperature. As a good measure, it is good to wash every other day as a minimum,” says Yates. “However, it is not wrong to wash your hair every day (depending on your hair type).”

Artur Kirsh, celebrity hairstylist, agrees: "Wash your hair as often as is best for you. I’ve seen those with short hair/pixie cuts wash their hair once to twice a day, then those with long hair once to twice a week and maintain their locks with dry shampoo. It’s really whatever suits you and your needs best, but if you’re ever unsure, schedule a consultation with your stylist."

Oil and product buildup can lead to hair loss

Even more of a reason to not feed into the hair training narrative and go days or weeks without washing your hair is that a buildup of oil and product can cause hair to fall out. Excess oil and product buildup can clog the follicles on your scalp, leading to an unhealthy scalp environment that can lead to hair loss.

Some who try hair training turn to dry shampoo to help get them through their days between washes. Dry shampoo is actually one of the products that, when used too often, can lead to these clogged follicles—especially if you aren’t washing it out frequently enough.

Yates agrees and warns not to overcompensate oily hair issues by overusing dry shampoo. “This can lead to clogged follicles and prevent new hair growth and eventual hair loss.”

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